On the table, your have your meter set to kohms, right. I would guess a few Ohms. When the system is working properly, you can get the coil to release sparks just by turning the key on and rotating the protrusion past the pulser. There is a pick up coil at the crankshaft that senses a little protrusion on the shaft. However, it supplies ground to the shell via the black wire. However, the pulser is needed to start and run the engine.
Meaning I turn it counter-clockwise to take it out - while wedging something like a screwdriver against the flywheel teeth so it cannot turn. I'm not familiar with that gear, but it looks like the pulser faces out toward the gear. So I unplugged them the battery is fine, spins the motor over fast no problem - and still no spark. The table shows the negative probe connecting to the wires as numbered down the left hand side and the positive probe connected to the wire numbers going across the top. I switched those 2 wires and still no spark.
Any ideas on how to test the resistance at the charge coil itself? If the reading is different from the peeled wire at the coil to the frame, check the connection of the inner wire to the frame--that may be the problem. More that 15,000, it's open. If it's more than a few ohms, it's open. So it appears the switch is ok. You have had the starter gear off the crankshaft before, right? As you have already discovered, there is nothing to adjust. This was with the ignition coil unplugged - should it be tested with the ignition coil plugged in or does it matter? It's unusual for the coil to have such a reading, as they usually fail by going lower than spec or infinite. From the drawing, it looks like there are 3 bolts which is similar to the common steering wheel puller.
I don't think it triggers off the key in the crankshaft. I could try to rig up a jump wire and try it. It might be a little longer before I can reply back but I will as soon as I can. Ok, I think we may have something now. Which wires do I switch? For example, it has this wiring diagram for ignition. Or, if none comes back, then the switch probably just grounds that wire when you flip it off.
I'd say at least 0. Could that be the problem? According to the service manual I have, they should be. Everything has to be disconnected. Machines like generators and electric motors consist of two main components that fulfill two basic functions, depending on the design. If you have the manual, maybe we can figure it out together.
I don't know how I could test it directly, the brown wire disappears into it under the wrapping, I was unable to get the test probe to connect to it anywhere, and for the black I guess it just bolts to the wheel inside and grounds. If less than 5,000, it's shorted. If none of these things work, I recommend getting a service manual with the wiring diagrams. So I'm going to work on taking the flywheel cover off next, hopefully I can get that done in the next couple of days. Are there some bolt holes you could screw some bolts into? One set of stator coils is feeding the ignition system, while another set is providing an electrical current that charges the starting battery of the watercraft. I assume it is a normal right-hand thread? Have you seen that and if so does it look undamaged? I assume you are talking about testing the wires coming into the ignition coil? To measure voltages, you need to have everything connected and turned on. Also, I traced the wires from the thermo switch, black and pink coming into the electrical box - they show infinity, with the switch still in the block.
Also not sure what you meant by that tab on the back, unless you are referring to what is pointed directly at by 5 in the pic. I have no reason to suspect there is anything wrong with the magneto. P - infinity should be 7. Connect your voltmeter to the primary terminals of the ignition coil. We can get thru this pretty easy. Sorry, I was just looking at the schematic.
I don't have the wiring diagram, so not sure which color the wires are. Would that one be compatible? It reads the peak or highest voltages from a source that gives a voltage that rises and falls. Generally speaking, to measure resistances, you need to have everything disconnected. I assume you are talking about testing the wires coming into the ignition coil? You can leave it plugged in. If not, then you do need to have the box grounded for troubleshooting.
Do I need to take it out and test it? Would that be a way to test the magneto without disassembling it? Hopefully your manual says what it should be. In generators and alternators, the rotor is the component to which the movement from an outside source of power is applied, as is it is seen in the vehicle alternator. This should be about 10,000 Ohms. To go higher than spec, there usually has to be a lot of damage or a problem with the lead wires. The diagram shows a lighting coil, and ignition coil, etc. Also, I traced the wires from the thermo switch, black and pink coming into the electrical box - they show infinity, with the switch still in the block.